Helen Lee's new look

Arriving at Helen Lee's sunny Taikang Lu studio, an impossibly long-limbed model being fitted for a floor-length evening dress and framed pictures of the designer posing alongside the glamorous likes of Halle Berry and Clive Owen, it's clear that the designer has moved forwards and upwards from cult label, insh, known for its playful t-shirts, low-key elegance and youthful edge.

When CreativeHunt pay the Shanghainese designer a visit, she's pulling together the final details for the debut show for her new, eponymous line, being unveiled as part of Shanghai Fashion Week. "People know me because of insh, and I think when people see the new Helen Lee line they'll be surprised, it's very different", Lee explains.

After graduating in Fashion Design from Raffles Design Institute, Lee spent two years honing her craft in Japan before returning to Shanghai and founding insh. She was amongst the first local designers to work with the city's fashion week back in 2003, showcasing sporty, casual and fun lifestyle pieces – quite different from this year's offerings.



"insh was quite urban and quite young, which suited by customers back in 2002 when I started. But after eight years or so, they wanted something different – they grew up and couldn't always wear t-shirts everywhere! They were asking for something suitable for both the office and for parties – not formal suits, but something in between that still had a very creative feel."

Lee found herself making more and more one-off pieces in response to this new call for grown-up sophistication, and began selling the Helen Lee line initially in Vancouver, Canada. And now, with a new Shanghai store in soft-opening phase and two in the pipeline for Beijing, the designer feels the time is right to bring Helen Lee to China.

The collection, Open Black, is inspired by Lee's own experiences and a 2010 that by all accounts could have made even the most dedicated designers throw in the towel and give up. And indeed, reflecting on the personal tragedies that shaped recent months, the Shanghainese designer admits " I almost quit. But after a while I realized that everyone has these dark times, but there's also bright times too. In terms of colour, this season is very much black and white, by which I want to communicate this idea of hard times in the past and moving forward"





This idea of contrasts also extends to materials – heavy wool against light-as-a-feather chiffon. "It's durable", explains Lee, "and it shows that there's two sides to everything". The pieces themselves encapsulate this idea succinctly, with a few classic Helen Lee hallmarks: importantly, these clothes are fun – a light, sheer dress punctuated with heavy white wool balances wearable modesty and risqué daredevil. There are surprises too – a black, metallic number turns out to be chiffon customised with a shiny weave, and exquisite linings to jackets make for secret, subtle luxury.

As with insh, the clothes are cut very simply, their star quality being in the details: a favourite piece from the collection is a mandarin collared dress, white save for that black metallic chiffon piping. Where the upper half is slinky (and sexy with hook and eye fastenings along the length of the back), the skirt is outrageously fun – lengths of white yarn like plumage, finishing just above the knee. Other pieces are more demure: an elegant trench coat, fashioned from organza to reveal the beautiful craftsmanship inside, its belt neatly pleated in a thoughtful detail.

"I wanted to create things that are unique but also wearable and reasonably priced. That's important – I don't want my clothes to be like a piece of art that people think are beautiful but that they can't afford or don't feel they can wear. I want people to wear them, that's my goal and for me that's success – I'm driven by people", Lee explains.



The designer enjoys success abroad, and notes a distinct although lessening difference between her foreign and Chinese clients. "When I started, people would come in, try on the clothes and ask where they're from. When they found out it was a local designer, they'd why a Chinese brand was so expensive – they could just go to Xiangyang Market a spend 20rmb! Many people even said I should change the brand name from insh to In Paris! No one would say that now. Before, people were all about their Louis Vuitton or Prada bags, but now more and more people are happy to 'discover' new designers. It's a change I've seen."

With a new store opening imminently, the Shanghai Fashion Week debut for her new label and a stint at Vancouver Fashion Week shortly after, Lee looks set for a stellar 2011. With a loyal following passionate about her unique blend of wearability, fun and surprise, Helen Lee is one local designer clearly very happy - and rightly proud - to be making in Shanghai.

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Helen Lee's new Shanghai shop can be found at No. 1, Lane 172 Fumin Lu. For further details, email the designer here